I’ve been surfing some of the best surf boards most of my life. As a pro surfer, I was super blessed & lucky to have the best people in my life growing up and learning to surf Canoes & Baby Queens as a nine & ten
year old in Waikiki on Oahu, Hawaii.
People learning to surf need to be open & smart and not think the one can ride & surf the same boards as the pro surfers surf on. Many people make the same common mistakes, when ordering their surfboard. So here are a few things to keep in mind when choosing a surfboard for your self.
These pro surfers rip and shred on their surfboards. But don’t make the mistake so many people do by jumping to quick from a long board to a short surfboard. Please don’t get this thought in your mind “I’m going ride what they ride.” Do yourself a favor, if you’re thinking of riding a model that the best surfers use. First add volume (thickness) and make sure your surfboard is going to be wider to paddle and catch waves easy. What works for John John Florence and Freddy P at Pipeline or Ala Moana, might not work as well for you at, say, Malibu Beach or San Clemente.
So many people call me about booking reservations for intermediate surfing lessons or a surf clinic over a number of days and they want to jump down to a smaller board because it is easier to carry or it looks cool. And they choose to do this before they even know how to really turn or make a cut back. People seem to think they surf so much better than they do and aren’t open to real good information so they can progress and surf so much easier.
When your board is to short, it makes paddling slower, missing waves and struggling to gain speed, focus and good technique. Finding a board that floats you is extremely important. Our goals at my Nancy Emerson Surf Clinics is to help you make a transition with little effort. The transition between turns with one fluid motion, you need thickness in your surfboard when you are still progressing with your surfing. The key to this kind of surfing is tied to finding your personal magic volume and dimensions. Volume is something that I don’t think a lot of people really understand completely & what that entails. Finding the right volume in your surfboard is essential to finding the right board for you! You’ll still need to work out the normal dimensions on your board, like height, width, and thickness, but having your volume number dialed in makes all of this a lot easier.
It’s important to reach out and ask for guidance from a surfing coach or even an especially a great shaper. This is pretty important. And like any relationship, you have to work at it for it to work for you. Find a local shaper and start talking to him or her & build a strong relationship. Share how you surf (be honest now) how much you weigh (again, be honest) and what you’re looking to get out of the board. You won’t always get a magic board right away, but creating a relationship with a shaper and having them respond to your feedback is a really important step in getting good boards.
Test your new board in the best conditions possible. When you get a new board, I really recommend finding fair to good waves the first time you ride it. Most of this is based on the idea of first impressions. You want to give your new board an opportunity to shine. Don’t take it out for the first time when the conditions are really junk. It may leave a bad taste in your mouth and bad tastes are hard to shake off. If you’re riding a board when the waves are good, you’re allowing the board to succeed or fail on an even playing field.
The magic board is not a myth. When you get one, hold on to it. A magic board will change your entire outlook on surfing. The confidence alone will elevate your surfing and confidence. It’ll make the junk waves sessions fun and it’ll make fun sessions unforgettable. When you get a gem, take good care of it. So if in doubt email me and I am happy to guide you in the best direction for you! Aloha! And Happy Surfing!
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