Nancy surfing one of her all time surf spots, Honolua Bay, Hawaii

Today in Western Australia is the start of the men’s and women’s Championship Tour called the Drug Aware Margaret River Pro.   There are a few surf spots at Margarets.   And its important when you are going to ride larger waves, you work yourself into it from being a young teen, if possible. Your results will be much more progressive. When we are young we have a brave streak, which you can do anything and have no fear in riding and getting into large waves surfing.  With Nancy Emerson School Of Surfing on Oahu, Hawaii or in Australia you will get a huge boost with your Surfing riding large waves surfing.

From the car park at Surfers Point, Margies is an amazing view. When the Indian Ocean swells come directly in, they’re visible from a distance. Most swells are from the South and Southwest and a light Southeast wind blows everything offshore, making it look very clean to surf.

Waves tend to break first at Southsides, which can be an A-frame but mostly breaks South as a righthander. The waves then swing into Centers, then Main Break, and, at just about any size, form to a cobra head at Main Break with a left and right option.

Its very important you learn about the break you are going to surf from an experienced surfer from the area. Or even a very experienced coach to help you learn to ride larger waves.  These are very important

When you are in deeper water and in bigger waves and you take off on a wave you want to get out of in this instance you can jump off feet first and together and this will get you out of the wave much easier. You can then get back out to the line up and catch wave you will be more comfortable riding. Remember always spend a good period of time watching and checking out the surf before entering, so you have the knowledge that will help you understand what to expect the waves and its character for the day you are surfing